Stylish Riders

Who says you can’t surf an 18 foot open water race board? 

Some of the stylish riders at the Showcase. You can view this gallery two ways–click on any picture to see it full size, then you can browse a picture at a time, of click on slideshow. [Read more]

Tandem Showoffs

The kids at the Showcase were great fun-enthusiastic, talented, fun to be around. And could they SURF! Slater Trout and Zane Schweitzer did tandem standup with toes on the nose, butt on the nose, helicopter spins–you name it. While Ashley and Conner Baxter did some funny ballet on a big Sup board.

Diane’s Favorite Photos

Diane Jenkins did the photography for the 2008 Maui Standup Board and Paddle showcase. Here are her favorite images

Introduction–Cautions and Precautions

The tips section is where each new chapter of the book: Stand Up Paddlesurfing will appear each week–one chapter per week. Chapters posted here will be moved to the Book tab after publication.

 
Before you start paddle surfing you need to assess your swimming skills and your ability to handle yourself and your board in surf. Any watersport is dangerous, and good swimming skills are a necessity, even if you only do standup on flat water and lakes.

Leash: Wear one. Even on a lake. When you fall you often give the board a kick that sends it zooming away. Then the substantial freeboard gives the wind something to push against and suddenly you’re all alone. In waves it’s even easier to be abandoned by your board. I had to swim in from the outer reef at Kanaha when my leash parted one morning last summer. It was after noon before I hit sand. Long morning.

It’s not just your safety that’s at stake though–you can kill or injure someone with one of these boards. A leash is not a cure all for that problem but it’s a start.

More important though is the issue of where you practice. Don’t learn where there are other surfers. These are big boards and it’s easy for them to get out of control. You don’t need the best spot in the lineup, all you need is some sloppy waves to practice on.

Don’t forget how long the board and leash are. If you get worked and are bouncing along in the whitewater your board can be 25 feet away from you. There’s no excuse for learning where there are people below you who can be hit by your board.

When you do fall in, pretend that you don’t have a leash. Do what you can to control the board. DON’T grab the leash though–if it gets wrapped around your fingers while you’re in the wave they can easily be broken. It’s happened. It’s a good idea to have a grab handle on the back of the board. A handle is handy on the front of the board for that matter. If you have a solid handle to hang onto then it’s much easier to keep your board away from people. The other big advantage is that you can get an occasional breath while you’re being bounced around–you’ll always be near the surface if you’re hanging onto the board.

While we’re talking about breathing and drowning, your paddle is actually a big help when you’re getting pushed down by a wave. Put it across your chest with the paddle blade above your head and the dihedral bent down. As you are pushed through the water the paddle will send you upwards. I’m not sure why this works, but every time I try it I’m amazed at how fast I pop up.

Lifejacket: It’s not unreasonable to wear a kayak-style lifejacket. The inflatable kind that are almost as narrow as a pair of suspenders are really handy. Some of the best big wave surfers in the world wear them today. Yes, you’ll look stupid, but you’ll be alive and stupid, not dead and cool.

Be aware of the wind and currents, you can easily be blown to sea by an offshore wind or find yourself fighting a powerful current. Start your learning experiences where there are lifeguards, and it’s highly recommended to have someone on the shore that’s paying attention to where you are and whether you are screaming or not.

Etiquette: Once you get good, remember that you have a huge advantage over other surfers–and DON’T take more advantage of it than you should. You can start into a wave long before standard surfers can, you can see that the third wave is better than the first two, you can get back to the lineup much quicker, and you can catch waves even when you’re out of the slot. Don’t be a wave hog.

There’s a backlash starting of surfers being pissed off about SUP folks coming into their favorite spot and taking too many waves. Of course there are some territorial knuckleheads that think they own the beach. They think any wave you take is too many waves. But there’s two good reasons not to irritate fellow surfers:

First, you don’t need their waves. A SUP surfer can surf almost anywhere. Waves that are too small for shortboarders are just fine for SUP. Long frequency, no shoulder waves give long and fulfilling rides. You can SUP surf in a ski boat wake. You can also travel long distances to get to outside breaks or breaks that aren’t easy to get to from shore. It’s fun and good exercise getting there, and you don’t have to dodge the grems and groms.

Second, they were there first. No matter how stupidly they might assert their territory, you’re the new guy, even if you shortboarded that break for the last twenty years. Give them room.

Cross Stepping

Tired of doing that awkward little crab scuffle as you inch around on your board? The cross step is a classic longboard move every Paddlesurfer should master. If nothing else it looks totally soulful. But really the reason for the cross step is not so you can win tango contests, it’s to keep the board flat and trimmed. Your crab scuttle rocks the board from side to side. A properly placed cross step distributes the weight across the board without dipping the rails.

Step one: Tango at home. Seriously–walk around for a few days cross stepping as often as you can. The movement needs to become natural before you get on a board. Don’t just stagger around sideways, place your foot carefully, keeping weight on your toes and heel as you put the foot down. The only way you can do that is to bend your knees, stick your ass out, and get low.. Which is exactly what you want to do. Don’t bend forward at the waist–stay balanced.

Step two: Get loose on your board. Move around, shift your weight, step forward and back. I see guys all the time that are rooted in place on the board.

Step three: Fall in a lot. Hey, it’s going to happen. Catch a wave, trim in, get in a good surfing stance, stay low, start steppin’ brah.

Step four: Be one with the waves. As you move forward the board will accelerate down the wave–unless you’re trimmed straight down the line. As the board accelerates it will tend to boot you off the back. One more reason to stay low.

Step five: No premature celebration. I tend to take three steps and then stand up straight to say “look at me, I’m cross-stepping” though the last three words are mumbled underwater. Stay low going forward, then step your way back.

Okay, NOW you can celebrate.

Being Held Down

Even the idea of being held on the bottom or stuffed under a ledge of reef can start your heart pounding–and that’s exactly what you don’t want to do. If you’re relaxed and calm you can easily hold your breath for 30 seconds, with practice 60 seconds is easy. If you’re panicked and thrashing around it’s more like ten.

Even a fairly small wave can catch you in exactly the wrong spot and pin you. A big wave has all kinds of unpredictable things happening under it. You might pop out in just a few seconds after a wipeout on a big wave, or you could be down on the bottom looking through a curtain of foam, trying to figure out which way is up.

When everything is going bad, time gets haywire. A big wave period (the time between waves) is 15 to 20 seconds. If you are held down until just before the next wave comes, that’s probably twenty seconds maximum.

A two wave hold down, which is pretty rare and considered to be pretty horrific, is at the very most, 40 seconds, and more likely 30 seconds. It might seem like you’re down there for ten minutes, but even a really bad hold down is in the easy range of holding your breath–if you are calm and relaxed.

Of course calmly holding your breath in our living room and doing it while you’re being bounced across a reef are two different things. But the living room is a decent place to practice. You might also want to try the classic hold down exercise–carrying weights underwater. Good training if the prospect scares you. It doesn’t have to be a fifty pound boulder, twenty pounds of dive weights will give you valuable experience.

Here’s some things to consider when the wave is dropping on your head:

1. Why don’t I have some floatation? You might think it looks dorky, but don’t tell that to Laird–he’s usually wearing an impact vest with floatation when he’s charging big stuff. So do an increasing number of tow-in surfers. Even light ones aren’t as comfortable as no vest is, and they can be a liability in a crowded surf spot–it’s tough to dive under a board that’s headed toward your head if you’ve got a vest on. But when a double overhead lip falls on you and you pop up in the foam four seconds later, that vest feels REALLY comfortable.

2. Your paddle can help. If you held onto your paddle when you fell, it adds a little buoyancy and will help pull you up. When you get hit by a wave, putting the paddle behind your head tends to push you upwards. I don’t know why that works, but in my experience it does help. Once you get out of the impact zone you can toss your paddle towards your board and swim unencumbered, or tuck it in your rash guard for a little added float.

3. Don’t fight the power. When you’re being held down, relax as much as possible during the turbulent stage. You can’t swim against the wave’s currents and you’ll just burn up O2. Wait for the bubbles to start to rise, and follow them up. Watch for your board as you surface, no point in adding a head injury to your challenges.

4. Duck and cover. The most important element is simply being calm and getting breaths when you can. Try to control your body by keeping your arms in and your knees bent and clenched while you’re in the wash. And take your time. Kicking like crazy for a breath works some of the time, but one day a lip will fall above you just before you reach the surface.

5. Take the ride. If the waves are breaking outside your position and you can reach your board, get a good grip on it before the next set hits. If the sets aren’t huge and you are getting hit by mostly whitewater, sitting on the board near the tail, holding on with your hands, and dangling your feet will keep you above the whitewater. If nothing else you’ll get pushed out of the impact zone in the whitewater. Just make sure there’s no one barreling down on you as you sit there like a bobber.

6. Bail if necessary. If the lip is headed straight for your head, or other surfers are headed towards you, conditions might be better a few feet down. Get as big a breath as you can, and duck under, diving towards and under the wave. Arch your back and kick forward and chances are you’ll pop out the back quickly. Just make sure you’re deep enough that you don’t get sucked backward over the falls. That’s always bad.

Retrieve your board, and get the heck out of there. You probably only need fifty feet to be in safer water.

One of the beautiful things about surfing is that you’re on your own. In the toughest times no one can really help you. Maybe not as much as when you jump out the door of an airplane, but how things turn out in the surf is pretty much up to you. A little conditioning, a little practice, and some mental discipline will go a long way to making sure they turn out well.

The UK standup Scene

Matt Argyle, styling in a frosty UK wave 

2007 has been something of a seminal year for stand up paddle boarding in the UK.  We had our first national SUP competition held in perfect 3-4ft waves in Cornwall, the British Stand Up Paddle Boarding Association was formed (BSUPA) and we began to see more people out in the surf on SUP boards. [Read more]

Fins and Board Shapes

Fins work best when they are in the water

This article is going to evolve over time as I learn more. I’m working on a general chart that will enable you to pick a condition–like “the board won’t maintain direction in the waves” then you choose your current fin setup and it suggests corrective action. Right now it’s a collection of post-it notes. I need to do a bunch of experiments, or find someone who already has, so I can give real information.
[Read more]

2008 Maui Stand Up Board and Paddle Showcase

The muffled thump and curses in a Boston accent told me brother Bob had tried to move another palm tree with his face.

It’s nerve-wracking carrying boards, paddles, tents, coolers, tables and myriad other items across a pitch-dark park to the beach. Especially when you’re wearing the traditional Maui “slippahs”. Cheap between-the-toe thong sandals afford little toe protection from the myriad stumps, bumps and lava rocks. [Read more]

How Not to Be a Surf Monk

We know you’re a soulful surfer, but did you really intend to be celibate? Are dates a wistful memory? The last time a girl gave you her number, did it start with 555? Have you decided that women are just too finicky, too flaky, too unobtainable?

You may be a surf monk.

[Read more]

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