SUP Surf 101 Basic Track Chapter2

Reading Rips and Channels

If you are surfing shorebreak or some reef breaks you’ll want to know where the currents and channels are,  because that’s the easiest way out. Later we’ll tell you how to punch through whitewater on your SUP board. The kind of whitewater that would send a shortboarder duck-diving or a longboarder into a turtle roll can be punched over with a SUP board because if the unique combination of low resistance in whitewater or small breaking waves (it hits is your feet instead of your whole body), the ability to weight and unweight the board as the wave travels under it,  and the power and balance advantages of a paddle. But still, if you can go through a channel or power out in a rip, that’s the way to go.

Spotting a channel is usually easy–waves are breaking and peaking on both sides of it, but only the largest waves in a set break in the channel. You’ll also see other surfers using the channel to get out past the break. Channels can “close out” as the swell either grows or the tide changes. Close out means that the waves break across the channel and make it difficult or impossible for all but the most experienced surfers to get through.

Rips are a little harder to spot and take some practice to interpret. Since a rip is simply water from waves flowing back out you can spot them by discoleration of the water from sediment being carried, or from ripples in the water where the water around it is either calm or moving in a different direction. Sometimes you’ll see waves breaking on both sides of the rip, because the rip and the small channel under it disturbs the waves enough to prevent them from breaking.

While a rip is the surfer’s friend–a free ride to the lineup–it can also be extremely dangerous. If you are caught in one when you are already tired or when your paddling is still weak, it can take you places you don’t want to go. The easiest way out of a rip is to paddle perpendicular to it. Eventually you’ll hit the edge and be out of it. Don’t be surprised if the rip bends and twists–there’s no law that says they need to go straight. SUP surfers have huge advantages over prone surfers–they can see more and they paddle more powerfully. You will generally use a rip to take you out to the edge of the lineup and then paddle at a diagonal to leave the rip and make your way to yur chosen take off spot.

Remember in all cases that you can become separated from your board if your board or leash breaks. You may be swimming in rips, currents and waves. Keep your head, don’t swim against currents, take your time and make your way to shore. If there is assistance available from other surfers or lifeguards, make a smart decision about when to ask for it.  Signal for help before you are struggling or exhausted. If no assistance is available and you get tired, tread water or float to collect yourself. People have survived many hours in the water without floatation. You can do it if you don’t panic and exhaust yourself.

Your assignment

Go to a popular surf break stand on the shore and find the channels and rips. Should be pretty easy since surfers will be using them. Try to find alternative ways to get out.

Go to a place where waves are breaking but no surfers are out. Find the rips and channels. If possible, toss a piece of driftwood into the rip and see where it goes.

Studying rips from shore is just as valuable as studying them in the water.