A Basic Friday Night In Paia

If you’re a surfer, Friday night in Paia is a challenge. Staying up late isn’t easy when you routinely get up at 5:00 AM to do the dawn patrol at your favorite break.

But the Friday night surf movie at Lightning Bolt surf shop doesn’t start until 8:00PM. There might be a party to go to first. Or if you’re staying at the Paia Inn (or invited, as many people were last Friday) there’s jazz music and a BYOB get together in the courtyard. Last Friday night there were also two really good street musician bands in full swing–three young and very talented kids doing some haunting original modern rock, and across the street, an incredibly good five piece combo with a very hot violin payer and excellent guitarist.

Typical Paia Party–the women are decked out, and the guys…not so much

The bar at Jacques was jammed with locals and there was some kind of celebration going on in the outdoor dining area. Diane and I opted for a quiet dinner at Moana Cafe. We both ordered Filet Mignon medallions and a good Cabernet. The entrees tool a little longer than we expected, so we were getting a little nervous as 7:30 approached, since we planned to stop at the Paia Inn before going to the movie at Lightning Bolt. When our filets came, we tasted them and I said “let’s not worry about being late, I want to enjoy this”. Superb.

Moana Cafe–always great food

By the time we finished and walked back to the Paia Inn it was nearly 8:00PM, but we could see that Frank was running a little late on the movie. So we dropped off some ginger/papaya chocolate bark Diane had made, and crossed the parking lot to the Inn. There were only a few people there, and we realized the drinks were BYOB, so I went to the Wine Corner (just a block away) and got a nice bottle of Rose. We had hardly settled in and had just started chatting with some folks, when I say the flicker of the movie at lightning bolt. The movie was “Busting Down The Door” which I had never seen, so I was anxious to see it all. We got to our seats just as the opening title rolled. Excellent film, I highly recommend it.

Lightning Bolt surf shop

After the movie we talked with some friends at Lightning Bolt, then headed back over to the Inn, where the party was in full swing. I shot a few pictures and was enjoying the crowd, but I could tell Diane was about finished. I was feeling a little put out at having to leave, but when we got to the car, Diane drove (since I had had quite a bit more wine than she) and I immediately conked out. I woke up when we pulled into the driveway. We both shambled to bed.

the Paia Inn Party starts to roll

Nice band, but with so many people talking they were a little hard to hear

the party filled the courtyard and spilled into the lobby

Nice hat. I need one of those, though my head is big and square–probably better not

The band was relaxed and comfortale with the crowd

Diane’s patented “hat up buckwheat, we’re outa here” look

I woke up at 5:00AM as usual, feeling a bit fragile. I looked out the window at the wind, driving rain and small swell, and decided to bake scones.

You need a good breakfast before making any foolish decisions about surfing.

Paia Inn: Remarkable and Perfect

We’ve just found the best place to stay on Maui (other than Ponohouse). It’s perfect for any active person or couple that plans to spend their time on the North shore–surfing, windsurfing, SUP Surfing, whatever. It’s perfect partly because of location, but it also balances luxury, tasteful accommodation, and amenities (like private beach access directly to the surf break in Paia Bay!!) in a quiet way that blends elegantly with funky Paia. It’s also reasonably priced.

I suspect that when people understand what a gem this is, it will be very hard to get one of these five rooms. If you’re planning a trip to Maui this year (it’s a great year to do so–more about that later), you should check this out and make your reservations early.

Before we bought Ponohouse Diane and I used to come each April and stay for three weeks–usually at the Four Seasons or some other Wailea hotel. It was expensive and inconvenient to the North Shore, where I spent most of my time. While the Paia Inn existed then (it was started in 1962) it pretty grubby. If it had been as it is now I would have nailed down one of these rooms perpetually.

It’s a vast understatement to say that we were surprised–we expected something ordinary. Let’s start with the location and the outside. Except for the sign you’d never know Paia Inn exists. The rooms are above a storefront–currently a gallery–and you enter the Inn from the back, pulling in beside a gas station.


As you step through the gate you find the first surprise–a shady, cool, comfortable courtyard. Very inviting, very comfortable. My immediate thought was “what a nice place this would be to kick back with a beer”. Paia has wonderful restaurants, but nothing this peaceful and inviting.

Walking through the heavy door we come another surprise–a spacious, and very tastefully appointed lobby with interesting and colorful art on every wall.

In a big hotel the lobby is just for show. But in a small inn like this, it’s part of your living space. And this is a very comfortable place to hang out. The Inn provides complimentary coffee and pastry in the mornings, from my favorite coffee joint in the entire world–Anthony’s–which is right across the street. The lobby would be a fine place to enjoy that, though the courtyard would probably always be my first choice.

Up a short flight of stairs is another nicely decorated and comfortable common area with a computer and printer/fax. The Inn has free wireless high speed internet access and flat screen TV in each room.

The rooms are small and simple, but pretty and comfortable. They are exactly what I like in a hotel–roomy enough to move around in, comfortable beds, nice shower/bath and nothing more.

The location is at the heart of Paia, backed up to Paia Bay. In my heart Paia is right up there with Paris and Portland–beyond just a special place. Across the parking lot is Lightning Bolt Surf shop. It’s Maui’s original surf shop, originally owned by Gerry Lopez, started back in 1972. Across the street is Anthony’s. Besides having the best coffee on the planet, Anthony’s clientele includes every great surfer and windsurfer you’ve ever heard of. You’re as likely to run into Dave Kalama or Laird Hamilton and his family as you are to run into me. A little further up is the Fish Market restaurant–best fish plates in the world–at least I’ve never had better, and then there’s Jacques, Milagro, Moana Cafe and all the other great Paia restaurants. Great clothing and beachwear shops, the remarkable Ship Gallery, venerable Chuck’s restaurant and bar. In short, it’s a great little town, and Paia Inn is right in the middle of it.

On Friday nights you can walk over to the Wine Corner and pick up a nice bottle or a six pack of Microbrews, perhaps grab a Pizza from Flatbread, and then walk into Lightning bolt where Frank shows free surf movies at 8:00 PM. Hit Milagros or Jaques for a nightcap and stroll back to your room. You won’t have walked a half of a mile.

We’ve saved the best for last.

Walk out of the courtyard and there’s a small area with a solar-heated shower to rinse off in, and a private path to the beach. You walk down a narrow lane decorated with carved masks. A couple of quick turns and there you are–at the far end of Paia beach, right in front of consistent reef break. The waves were puny when I visisted, but this is a nice spot to surf and good place to put in or take out your SUP board. I could easily see a short downwinder from Maliko Gultch to Paia Bay, taking out right at your hotel. Handy.

Rates currently range from about $150 to $250 per night. See their website at http://www.paiainn.com/ for more up-to-date information.

Breakfast in Maui

I should be more specific I suppose and make it clear that I’m talking about the north shore. Nothing wrong with the south side, I’m just rarely there for breakfast and it’s mostly tourist places. Except the Keihei Cafe, which serves an excellent breakfast and absolute stone killer coffee cake.

So you crawled out of bed early and you’re rolling through Paia to join the dawn patrol. But your stomach is growling and you won’t be worth squat without some coffee. You’re in luck if it’s after 5:30 AM, because Anthony’s Coffee is open (probably) and they can fix you up. Eddie and Kerry (not sure I spelled that right) run a great place–super friendly, full of interesting people, and knee deep in local color. Plus they have the best coffee I’ve ever had–Eddie roasts it himself. The roaster used to be right in the store, but Eddie moved it to a separate building when the place got too crowded. Diane and I buy dozens of bags of Anthony’s coffee every year, both for ourselves and to give to deserving friends.

And one look in the doorway of Anthony’s is all you need to understand–the place has so much soul they haven’t even unpacked most of it. Anthony’s also has local pastries, great bagels, and serves a full breakfast. I’m not wild about their eggs benedict–the hollandaise is some kind of a mix. But they’ve got lots of other choices and it’s all pretty good. Don’t get hashbrowns unless you like those little pre-formed bottom-feeding patty thingies. But the country fries are just fine.

Good ice cream too. Kerry (Ed’s wife) cooks amazing cakes, but she doesn’t do it as often as she used to. It’s just as well, I always felt really weird eating pineapple bundt cake for breakfast. But I never wanted to take a chance that it would be gone when I got done surfing.

If it’s a little later, and you’re hungrier, then there’s Moana Cafe.

I hear that Moana is a great place to have dinner. they have music there a lot, and it usually looks interesting. But I’ve never been there for dinner, and rarely for lunch (I’m usually on a board of some kind during lunch). For me Moana is breakfast. And what a breakfast.

The Funmobile in it’s accustomed place.

First of all there’s the eggs benedict. It’s a rare restaurant that makes their own hollandaise–usually it’s a mix. Not only does Moana make theirs from scratch, but it’s perfection. Light, slightly lemony, with the delicate flavors that the bogus mixes so totally lack. Perfect poached eggs–not disappointingly hard, or disgustingly runny. Perfect. Spicy blackened Mahi, or other choices that I’m sure are excellent. I wouldn’t know–I can’t pass up the mahi. Wonderful home fries–crisp on the outside, flaky on the inside. great coffee, excellent service. What more could you ask for.

The deadly pastry case–super croissants

Well, actually there is more. Their waffles are excellent, clearly made from scratch, you just can’t get that crispness any other way that I’ve ever found. Diane gets the waffles frequently. And Moana is a bakery–their croissants are excellent.

This is a local hangout. Did I mention the waitresses are all gorgeous?

They also have a really great lamb wrap thats great for lunch. I’ll just have to try the place for dinner sometime soon, but for me Moana means breakfast.

Grab a window seat if you can, but don’t take mine. Hey, that guy’s sitting in my seat!