Holy Buckets!…Maliko 6

So maybe you’re getting tired of hearing about Maliko runs, I think this is the last one I’ll write up for awhile. But this one was kind of special, and perhaps a little stupid. I called the usual suspects and no one seemed to want to go. Just about as i was about to give up, I got an email from Scott, saying he had managed to buy an F14 without waiting months for it, and he wanted to go for a run. This one would be his third.

So here we are, two newbies–Run 6 and Run 3. Off on our own, and the wind was howling. I don’t mean that figuratively, it was blowing so hard that the rack on my jeep was making a mournful howling sound as i pulled into the harbor parking lot, the traditional shuttle meeting spot. There was no one there. Usually there’s a selection of trucks with canoe racks on them–return shuttles for canoe downwinders, and perhaps a few obvious SUP shuttles. This time the parking lot was empty. Bad sign.

We decided to exit at Kite Beach instead of the Harbor, partly because we were getting kind of a late start (we met at 2:30), partly because the wind was swinging somewhat offshore in the harbor and it would be a slog for the last half mile, and partly because neither of us had tried a kite beach landing before. So we dropped off Scott’s truck at Kite beach and continued to Maliko.

No one was at Maliko either. the surf crashing on the rocks at the gulch exit looked hideous–it was filling the exit with foam and spray. We paddled out a good distance, turned left and committed to the run. ZOOM–I immediately caught a runner that took me what felt like a mile. As I angled in the swell to run outwards from the beach i saw why my ride was so powerful–the swell I was in was substantially over my head. I felt like I was down in a valley. Kinda cool, kinda NOT.

When that swell finally passed i realized I was huffing and puffing–i must not have been breathing. I looked ahead and inwards and saw Scott in pretty close to Ho’okipa. “Hmmm, pretty aggressive” I thought and continued to work my way out. I don’t really need to see the outer reefs of Baldwin Beach and Spartan’s reef again anytime soon. One bowel slacking incident per month is good enough for me. About that time Scott disappeared from view up ahead. After some time he reappeared, still ahead of me but closer to me and further out. I thought “either he saw Jesus or Spartan Reef, because something made him get the hell out of there”. Turns out he did more than just see it, he got inside of a couple of breaking waves. Got knocked around a little bit, and had to knee paddle out around them, but no harm, no foul except for a semi-permanent wide-eyed stare that should go away sometime next weekend. If he stays out of the water. Or drinks a lot.

The run was going really well, the wind was certainly hitting 35 mph, and the swells were easy to catch and hook up. Then we got close to Spreklesville and the ocean turned into some kind of crazed undulating waffle pattern with a bongo board under it. Big groundswell from the left, wind swell from behind, and the occasional huge thumping swell coming from the Northeast. I started having a little vertigo, probably from the light bouncing off the heavy waves, or maybe just from looking at he undulating surface under the nose of my board. I tried watching the horizon–no good, it was moving too much too. I tried taking off my sunglasses, but it just made it worse. I started falling a lot in the big swells.

Just before we got to Kanaha I decided to go closer to shore. the wind was shifting offshore a bit, and I didn’t want to have a long struggle once I turned the corner at Upper Kanaha. Bad idea. I moved a little too far inside, and suddenly I had overhead-and-a-half breaking waves outside of me. I was astonished at how fast I got into trouble. I tried to turn and paddle out past them but a monster rose up and started to break fifty feet outside. Just as the whitewater reached me I dove into the face, and then was snatched backwards violently by my leash. “Please hold, please hold” I thought. And then when the dragging continued far, far beyond the fifteen seconds I expected I thought “okay, got to do something or I’m NEVER going to get air.” So I doubled over against the rushing water and got my hand onto the leash and tried to pull the board towards me. It didn’t budge, but my less streamlined, doubled over body must have pulled my big, floaty board out of the whitewater, because i popped up and got a few breaths.

These are local windswells, so the period is really short. A few seconds behind the first wave was the next, even bigger. I flipped my board over and grabbed the edge saver on the leash and held on. I got worked awhile, but it wasn’t quite so bad. Got a couple more breaths and SLAM again. This time my feet brushed reef. I was well and truly screwed, Caught inside BIGTIME with no where to go, and being pushed onto the reef, with huge waves crashing on top of me every few seconds. And now that i was on the reef even the mid-sized waves were starting to break on me.

I pulled the board under my stomach, shoved my paddle between me and the board, and started paddling like hell to catch the wave bearing down on me. If my weight had been centered i would have pearled instantly in the steep, critical face, but in my boogie board position the nose was up high enough to clear the backside of the wave I was being hurled into, and the board surfed along. I pulled the board under me and got up to my knees, wobbling around and trying to get the paddle engaged–the board was trying to curve up and out of the wave. I got the board more or less under control, and rocketed over the reef on my knees. When the wave started to peter out I staggered to my feet and started paddling like mad for the lagoon.

As I approached the edge of the reef one last big wave nailed me and knocked me off my board. I went through the whole get-dragged-twice-as-long-as-usual routine again, and came up spluttering and completely out of breath. Fortunately i was inside the lagoon in relative calm. I really didn’t have much left.

I got up on the board and started catching swells and wind, running down on the inside of Lower Kanaha, past the lifeguard tower. Comfortable, familiar territory. Way ahead i could see Scott heading in. He took the turn in the right spot and stayed outside long enough to eliminate all the drama.

We both arrived at the beach within a few minutes of each other. We both had hair-raising stories to tell. We both shared long moments of silence as we drove back to my jeep in the gulch. When we arrived, the wind had dropped, the ocean looked inviting. I had this momentary, irrational, totally scary thought that we should do another run. This stuff is like Heroin. life threatening, dangerous and very addictive.

This GPS track tells the clearest story of any track I’ve recorded. Oh my God he got caught inside and went over the reef. Plain as day.

The speed track (the green squiggles) also tells a story. That’s a 19.5 MPH peak you see there where the Heads Up display box is. My, my, my. And then right where I went over the reef and managed to catch a wave to get my chubby ass out of there, you see a high speed blip that goes on for a long time. That’s me catching that long ride off the reef. Or maybe it’s me being dragged underwater.

Maliko Quattro

Maliko run number four is in my official record book. Last guy to the beach again, but I improved my time over the last run (the Maui Canoe and Kayak club race) by 15 minutes. If I keep improving at this rate by the time I have Maliko 10 under my belt I’ll be whipping Dave Kalama’s butt and be first in line for the beer. Nothing like an active fantasy life to keep up the old motivation.

It was a pretty good run for me. I fell thirty times–literally, you can count them on the GPS trace. But that’s down substantially from the 200+ of the last run. I got some great swell runs, and even linked up a couple, a phenomenon that I previously considered some kind of inept description by my fellow downwindpeople. It just didn’t make sense to me that you could shoot down one swell with such vigor that you could catch and ride over the swell in front of you and catch it. Seemed like some kind of perpetual motion nonsense. But it turns out that you can indeed do that, and it feels GREAT! I actually managed a triple, which i celebrated by falling in gripped in some kind of wild surfing frenzy while trying to get over the top of number four. You can see the event clearly at mile four on the trace.

Trust me, it was a lot more exciting on the waves than on the trace. The run was pretty wild. The wind was gusting well over thirty knots, blowing the tops off the swells, and some of the doubled-up swells were over ten feet. You DON’T want to look behind you in these kind of conditions, it’s pretty damned intimidating to see an well-overhead swell running up behind you.

About halfway to the harbor, right off Spreklesville, the swells got a lot steeper, and I started having some problems with Gumby pearling. It didn’t pitch me off, but the nose of the board was well underwater, and that made the tail feel very loose and weird. I tried stepping back, but that made it to hard to catch swells, so I tried taking off at more of an angle, and that seemed to help. It worked best on lefts rather than rights, so my track headed gently towards the beach, as you can see on the map. Right until I started seeing the breakers at upper Kanaha, at which point I went RIGHT, RIGHT, RIGHT. I need to get over my nervousness about getting caught inside on these reefs. This run is supposed to be 9.5 miles and even though I though I took what i thought was a more aggressive line this time, I actually did 10.1 miles. With a five MPH pace that extra .6 miles cost me at least six minutes. Hey, I could have been under two hours!

It’s really fun going on these runs with the Maui crew. This Sunday that was Randy and Chan Strome, Larry Risley, and Jack Dyson. a great bunch of people and fun paddle with, even if they do all leave me in the dust.

SUP Expeditioning on the Costalegre

Dave Collins is at it again, another interesting (and heavily packed) SUP expedition. Last August we covered his last SUP adventure, a SUP expedition around Cape Scott, the tip of Vancouver Island (http://www.kenalu.com/2008/08/) . This time he’s in tropical waters, the coast of Mexico, but the amount of gear he’s crammed onto his ULI looks about the same. SUP cruising and expeditions are a growing part of the SUP adventure. Let us know about yours. Here’s Dave’s story.

Expedition Report
As I finally scramble out of the surf zone I´m reminded of how impractical it is to paddle a loaded SUP.  I´ve had to go back to shore once already to repack my load—shifted by the hammering surf.  I wave to Elysia to paddle toward me.  At first petrified by the waves, she dug deep and made it out of the surf zone before me.  She´s still a bit wide-eyed, but maintains balance and equanimity in the mild noon chop.  This is her first SUP expedition, and my second.  Our shuttle driver is nowhere to be seen now.  We are alone on the open ocean of the “Costalegre”, the southern coast of the state of Jalisco from Barra de Navidad north to the southern tip of Banderas Bay where Puerto Vallarta is located.  I sense that this realization is still sinking in for Elysia, as I sense that my loaded board is sinking deeper into the water unless I paddle—which is what we begin to do in earnest.

Where are we going to put all this?

Packing up

A rational load

There’s a SUP board down there somewhere

I packed it, I’m gonna use it

Pelicans and a Costalegre Sunset

Only five minutes into establishing a rhythm we sight humpback whales about 100 meters offshore.  In a magical instant two of them breach simultaneously about 60 feet out of the water, exposing some two-thirds of their cetacean mass.  Awestruck and humbled, I wonder if the expedition might all be anticlimactic from here…?  In any case, I take it as  a most convincing sign of an outstanding trip to come.  As Elysia and I look at each other there is a sense that the scene is a metaphor for our union on this long-awaited journey.  “Wow,” is about the only word we can conjure.  The whales cruise south with us for a while longer and then disappear.

Arriving at Punta Soledad

Heavy going

A headwind picks up and the paddling becomes even slower, especially for me as I am carrying at least three times the weight of Elysia and weigh twice as much as she.  My mind is drifting and I´m beginning to fall under the awkward load and increased chop, while she is flying ahead featherlike and laughing.  At me perhaps, but her laugh and lightness are inspiring nonetheless.  With renewed concentration I try to drive thoughts of the outer-world from my mind and drive my board forward.  There is no better moving meditation than this sport and the need to focus is magnified by the load.  With every new stroke thoughts of the economic recession are replaced with concentration on balance, strokes, foot placement and then flashes of the Snickers bar in my camelback.  After two hours of hard paddling we sit on the boards to eat lunch, until I realize that we are drifting north, away from our destination, at a disheartening rate.  There will be no opportunity for lunch on the boards today, and landing on the open ocean is not a viable option either considering the size of the surf and our already slow progress.  We throttle down our Snickers and get paddling once more, but from here on out, due to our, and the ocean´s, conditions, we switch between sitting or kneeling on the boards and paddling standing up.

Look out below

Punta Soledad

Moving the load back made it balance better

Shoot quick while we’re still standing

Stroking for the beach

Some two to three hours later we come upon the aptly named Punta Soledad (Soltitude Point).  A reddish volcanic sea stack capped by agave and Prickly Pear cactus, framed by scrub forest and unrelenting surf, juts out like an exclamation mark ending the phrase, “You are alone now!”  Initially we decide to paddle around it and look for camp, but this strikes me, in a fleeting moment of clarity, as not a very wise idea.  The sun is going down and we are completely exhausted.  Not only should one plan on going about half as fast as a sea kayak on a loaded SUP, one should also count on getting twice as tired.  I suggest we backtrack a bit and grab a protected cove for the night and Elysia agrees.  The first thing we do upon beaching our boards is rip open the dry bag that with yesterday´s leftover pizza in it.  Between mouthfuls we smile, laugh and comment on the bounty and beauty of this beach, which I later discover is named Las Cuatas, or “female companions.”  I´m not female, but I soon switch into my pareo, or beach skirt, the ideal after paddling wear in a tropical climate, and the name seems fitting.

Welcome to our camp

Cocktail hour, thank God

Dusk is upon us as we hike up to get a view of the surroundings, the sunset, and the moonrise—the brightest full moon of the year due to the phenomenon of perigree.  Along the way we spot a fleeting Orange-breasted Bunting, one of the 22 endemic birds found in the Jaliscan Dry Forest, and a group of snorting, scurrying White-nosed Coati, a carnivorous raccoon-like mammal common to the region.  At the top we are so enveloped in the sunset that we don´t notice the moonrise until we turn around to walk back down.  Once again, as with the rising humpbacks, we are stunned beyond words—this time though, my imagination, far from thoughts of anticlimactic occurrences, now explodes with thoughts of infinite possibilities.

Rise and shine

Threading though a basaltic maze

Coves and inlets

Pelican Crossing

The door opens to these on day three, our final day, when we find some secret surf.  This is when the slower and more exhausting travel of SUP-expeditioning gets paid off in waves.  The payoff is abundant this particular day: overhead faces smile in consistent sets, greeted by an offshore breeze.  Elysia bows out gracefully and sets up the camera gear.  I am unduly impressed with her performance on her first SUP expedition and grateful for her company.  I know it won´t be too long before she´ll be joining me not only to enter and exit the surf zone, but to play madly in it…

A little Costalegro shoulder

El Tubo

The invisible man carves a tasty face

A little sunset samba

The SUP Expedition Set-Up
I am testing different gear than that from my first SUP expedition around Cape Scott last July (http://www.kenalu.com/2008/08/) and wearing a lot less gear thanks to the climate. I am using two of Werner´s (www.wernerpaddles.com) new paddles, the Advantage and the Carve.  The Advantage is Werner´s new touring/racing SUP blade, and the Carve is their new specialized surfing paddle.  Compared to all other SUP paddles I´ve tried, Werner is dominating the industry hands down.  All those years of R&D in the paddle industry have transferred directly into their SUP line, offering superior quality, diversity and durability.

To start, the ABS Palm-style grip on both the paddles just feels right.  And ergonomically it makes all the difference for stroke control while also lending to less strain on the wrist and hand joints at the end of the day.  The attention to detail—just the right width, thickness, and angle of the grip—make all the difference, especially after taking some 10,000 strokes.  Also, although I´m still quite fond of my Werner Spanker, I find the tear drop blade design on the Advantage and Carve more sophisticated and fluid.  First of all, the surface area of the blade is now more elongated throughout and not as wide at the bottom of the blade.  This reduces torque and makes for faster cadence, especially faster on the smaller Carve blade, which is ideal for making short, rapid strokes where they count—up front—when you need to build hull speed instantly to drop into a wave.  The dihedral of both blades is also more pronounced, allowing water to spill off the back of the blade more quickly, further decreasing torque.  And there is more scoop in both power faces of the blades which means more water catchment, and ultimately more efficiency.  The versatility of the adjustable shaft makes it possible for me to fit Elysia with a properly-sized paddle as well.  Finally, the durability of these paddles under the extra stress of paddling a loaded board is unmatched, an especially crucial detail on an expedition.

ULI and Werner Carve

Regarding boards, I am now paddling an 11-foot ULI inflatable board (www.uliboards.com), and Elysia is paddling a 10-foot Infinity (www.surftech.com).  I´ve mentioned that one should plan on going half as fast on an SUP expedition versus a sea kayak one, but that is a very rough equation and has much to with conditions—e.g., headwinds versus tailwinds.  An experienced SUP paddler has potential advantage in a tailwind, but any SUP paddler has an extreme disadvantage in a headwind.  Speed is also relative to what length and width of board one is paddling.  ULI has now come out with a 15-foot board, which I imagine would cruise along much faster than the 11-footer.  However, what one gains in speed by using a longer board, one will lose in performance in the surf zone, so it all depends on one´s preferences.  On this particular trip my preference is catching waves at otherwise inaccessible spots, not on making faster time or longer distance.

The ULI board is proving quite worthy, though, once I figure out how to better balance and secure the load.  The first day I had the load packed too far toward the front of the board, and I have now moved it a bit further back which cures the problem.  Also, my previous method of gluing E-Z plugs to the board and using nylon cord to strap down the load is not working as well either because the plugs do not adhere to the inflatable board material as well as they do to an epoxy board (at least with the glue I am using, which is a marine epoxy).  The method I´ve switched to is simply using two cam straps and wrapping them completely around the load and the board.  There may be a little drag on the hull, but I consider it miniscule, and far outweighed by the newly achieved security of the load to the board.  I flip in the surf again on my take-off, but no going back to shore to re-pack this time—the load holds steadfast to the board.  There is also the issue of increased board flex using an inflatable board versus an epoxy one, which tends to make paddling a loaded SUP slightly more unstable and slower.  But again I find that the positives of the ULI board far outweigh the negatives for SUP expeditioning.  I can travel anywhere in the world with this set-up without paying outrageous airline fares and worrying about the board getting damaged along the way.  And finally, I don´t have to sweat dinging or breaking a board on an expedition, where the consequences matter more.

An Extremely Diverse Ecosystem Under Pressure
Globally there is little good news for the state of our environment.  The Jalisco dry forest eco-region is no exception.  Tropical dry forest is the most threatened tropical ecosystem on earth.  And among this type of ecosystem the Jalisco dry forest, encompassing 16,218 square miles, is the most biodiverse in the world.  It hosts 1,100 species of mammals, 270 of birds, and 1,700 of reptiles and amphibians, and contains the highest rate of endemic species—84 animals and 110 plants found only in Mexico.  This forest is largely coastal, containing the section referred to as the “Costalegre”.  The area has been identified by Conservation International as falling into the Mesoamerican “Biodiversity Hotspot”, one of 34 in the world, and by World Wildlife Fund as one of the 200 global areas in most critical need of conservation.  These areas are selected for being the richest, rarest, and most endangered freshwater, marine, and terrestrial reservoirs of biota left on earth.

The Costalegre is undergoing an unprecedented environmental crisis due to unsustainable and unregulated development, tourism, agriculture, fishing, deforestation, contamination and poaching.  In collaboration with the University of Guadalajara´s Center for the Sustainable Development of Coastal Zones, I formed the nonprofit organization Tierralegre (www.tierralegre.org) two years ago.  Its mission is to protect the biodiversity and natural resources of Mexico´s Costalegre.  As I paddle this coastline I never take for granted that it is one of the least spoiled, most beautiful places on earth—for now.

A little Hydrodynamics

I gotta know.

That’s my burden, probably comes from the ADD (Attention Deficit Disorder) that so clearly determined my career path (Motorcycle mechanic, nuclear reactor operator, PR flack, software entrepreneur, technology marketer, direct and interactive agency founder, surf bum). When I start looking at something critically, I have to have some kind of authoritative or at least comprehensible answer for the question “why is it like that?”. And I really can’t let the issue rest until I know.  Questions pop back into my head at any time, distracting me from whatever I’m doing. It might take years, I might still be looking for some particular answers when I kick the bucket. But I gotta know.

When I started looking at SUP race/distance boards they looked “wrong” to me. The majority had long, tapering pintails. How could that work? Most of the folks I talked to said the idea was to disturb the water as little as possible, to join the flow back at the tail of the hull. That sounded a bit too zen for me. It looked to me that the flow would start separating from the rails as soon as they started to converge. That you’d have turbulence on both sides, causing not only parasitic drag, but also uneven buffeting force against the rails and the stabilizing fin, which would add more drag.

The Ku Nalu board is known to be a relatively fast standard board with a short nose and squash tail that permit straight rails

Most race boards, even 12′ ones like this Naish Glide, tend to have long pintails

Joe Bark’s racing boards, like this 16 footer, are even more extreme

While the S.I.C. F16′s and F18 tend to have blunter tails

I talked with designers like Mark Raaphorst whose F16′s figure large in the top ten finishers at almost any race, almost any place. Most of Mark’s open class race boards have a somewhat flattened tail. I asked him why his boards didn’t have pintails.  I didn’t take notes, so these aren’t really quotes–just the sense of what I recall  Mark saying:

Some of them do. Depends on what people are using the board for and where they paddle. If people are going to paddle in flatwater then a pintail is great, but in swells, especially following ones or in high wind, the squarer tail separates flow cleaner and the straighter rails let you catch the swells and plane quicker.

I suggested that the pintail might balance buoyancy better and he said: Nah, look how little difference we’re talking about. He grabbed a pintail template off the wall and dropped it onto a F16 tail. I could immediately see that it wasn’t much. This is all about flow and making a board catch a swell, or not.

Mark’s explanation made sense–sort of, but I still didn’t really know why a pinail would work in flat water.  One of the guys on the Stand Up Zone came to my rescue with an email address for a guy named Al Bowers who he said was an aerodynamicist for Nasa and a Surfski paddler. I sent him this email:

A fellow Stand Up Zone member gave me your email address and said you might be able to blow some smoke away from the issue of watercraft tail design.  I’ve seen that most Surf Canoes, OC’s and racing SUP boards have a pintail, and this doesn’t seem particularly logical to me. Most of the designers I talked to say something like “All the successful designs have Pintails” or “The idea is to disturb the water as little as possible” but neither of these are satisfactory answers.

Viewing the issue strictly from a viscous drag and friction side, it seems the pintail would have more drag for a similar waterline length since the flow would (I think) be separating along the length of the converging sides and the unequal turbulence would create side thrusts as it does in race cars. Seems to me that straight rails and a relatively abrupt square or squash tail would offer less drag.

I would appreciate your views on the subject. I’ve done quite a bit of searching on the web, but haven’t found many technical papers that offered enlightenment. I’m not planning to design any craft, I’m just looking to satisfy my curiosity and perhaps stimulate some new thinking on these issues. People tend to design things because they have “always been done that way”. Absent budgets for tank testing and sophisticated analysis I don’t think attempts to make a better hull will be very creative without some discussion to spark experimentation.

Thanks for your time in considering this request.

In  remarkably short time I got this reply:

Thanks for the note. I dunno if you’ve received any info on my background. I spent 20 years as an aerodynamicist in the Fluid Mechanics branch here at NASA dryden (located at Edwards Air force Base). I love aircraft, especially low speed and motorless flight (both a hang glider pilot and a sailplane pilot). I did my graduate work on laminar flow and sailplane airfoil computer code validation against wind tunnel and flight research data. I’m also an avid sailor (since I was a kid), paddler, and rower. Used to swim a bit and freedive. The one thing I never did do was surf (long story here, but I didn’t have much time for it, you see I also backpack, hike, do photography at a very serious level, and a bit of climbing). I’m also a bit of a musician (guitar mostly), did some studio work a zillion years ago. After I did my 20 years as a working aerodynamicist, I was promoted to the position of Chief of Aerodynamics, and then did a stint as the Deputy Director of Research at NASA Dryden, and I did an invited residency as a Special Assistant to the Associate Administrator of Aeronautics at NASA Headquarters in Washington DC. I am currently the Director of Aeronautics Projects at NASA Dryden. One other bit, I have sat on the board of Cal Poly University (San Luis Obispo) for 16 years for Mechanical Engineering, and two years ago I paid for four students to do their research project building a custom ICF Sprint K1 based on an optimal genetic algorithm (we were trying to rebalance the wave drag to skin friction drag, the theory said we should see a 3-4% decrease in drag at sprint speeds, we didn’t succeed, but the kayak worked as predicted, it failed due to other problems; I still have the boat and the molds). BTW, my wife and I paid for that project out of our own pockets.

ENOUGH! It turns out your friends are right. A pintail IS the optimum for most of the paddling we do. The flow REALLY does stay attached and flow back along the sides, FOR MOST OF THE PADDLING WE DO. Note the caveat at the end. Below hull speed (that taking the LWL in feet, take the square root of that, then multiply by 1.34, and that is the approximate “hull speed” in displacement mode) we are operating in pure displacement mode. Above this speed, we start to experience some hydrodynamic lift. By the time we get to double the hull speed, there is enough hydrodynamic lift that we start to leave the displacement mode behind. This regime is the transition range. Above this, we make enough hydrodynamic lift that we can consider ourselves planing. To plane is where all shortboard surfers and windsurfers operate. They need enough speed to LIFT the board and rider out of the water. At this point you don’t want a pintail anymore. You NEED straight rails and the hull should resemble a speedboat or a ski boat more than a kayak hull.

Now, back to those speeds, the “hull speed” of a 17 ft paddleboard or kayak is about 5.5 knots. A 21 ft surfski or solo outrigger is about 6.2 knots. So to breakout and plane we need to be going about 11-12 knots. This is well within the range of surfing.

There’s a long complicated theory with all this, but that’s the way it works out for us. BTW, sprint speeds are right in that 10-11 knot range. And people have played with planing type hulls for the 500m and 1000m races sprinter run. But its VERY marginal to plane. There was a French windsurfer that built a special low-speed planing board some years ago. In the 7-10 knot range his board was unbeatable. Below that, the old style long boards crushed him. And above that speed, the shortboards annihilated him. It always works out this way.

I hope this helps. If you’ve got further questions, drop me a line.

Best regards,

Al Bowers

So OK. Now I know. On to the next question

Cape Cod Bay Challenge – We Made It!

Months of preparation, planning, and training. Hundreds of miles paddled getting our selves ready for a long day on Cape Cod Bay. Mike has been reminding us all to hydrate well and eat right. The mandatory carb loading pasta feast the night before. We were ready…….then Bill, Mike, and I finished off 5 bottles of wine along with some good cigars…….I don’t think that’s typical marathon preparation wisdom.

OMG!…..it’s time to get up already! Down a bottle of Gatorade and a handful of aspirin. Drive to the hotel to pick up Mike and Bill…Oh well…at least I don’t feel as bad as Mike looks….mint julep comes to mind. Bill makes me angry…he’s actually kind of chipper…I feel like smacking him.

6:00….Hey…we made it to the beach! It’s a start. Shawn and Jody are there already looking fit and very competent. I don’t think they drank any wine last night…..smart guys. Heavy fog….real heavy…where’s David, where’s the boat? Start making phone calls….OK…the boat’s on it’s way. Should be here in 20 minutes or so. I get David’s voicemail….I hope he got another plane last night after the 1st was cancelled. Mike is making funny noises. My head is swimming but I can tell I feel better than he does.

6:20…we wanted to launch at 6:30…..we call the boat again. Capt. Paul says he’s getting close….coming in slow because of the fog. David shows up looking like a Hollywood star…oh wait…that’s right he is! Who’s friggin idea was it to have all these young fit guys around?

6:40…We call again…GPS puts the boat 1000 yards off the beach….we can’t see a thing….Capt. says he can’t tell where the house sized boulders are that are out there just below the surface and doesn’t want to risk coming closer, I can’t blame him, it’s like a mine field out there. I’m beginning to think we should have launched from inside the harbor. It wouldn’t have mattered except that we have Jerry and Paul and a board for Bill on the boat. Looks like you guys will have to ferry that board in….start paddling.

6:50…We call the boat again….they say we should be able to see Jerry by now….nothing…..are you folks SURE you’re off Plymouth beach?

7:00….still nothing….wait!, what’s that coming out of the fog….looks like something from a Stephen King movie walking on water coming to eat the tourists. It’s Jerry, I feel like cheering and we haven’t even left yet. Still no sign of Paul though. We decide to paddle out to meet him halfway.

7:15….we’ve geared up…said good bye to friends and family that showed up to see us off and paddle out in search of Paul. Somehow this isn’t the start I was hoping for but at least we’re on the water……and Mike has stopped chumming.

The water is like glass, the fog pea soup, not a breath of wind, the only sound our paddles and boards on the water. We find Paul still a long way from shore. Finally we’re underway….look…there actually is a boat! We stop to talk for few and give instructions for signals.

Uh Oh!….my head isn’t cooperating at all. The fog is blending the sky into the sea and I have no horizon to help my balance. (If you’re interested you can read some of the background of why I need a horizon for balance here: http://www.capecodbaychallenge.org/Standup/standup.html )I fall for the 1st time…..this is going to be a long day!

I don’t think Bill was really running away from Jerry and his floaties…

On second thought….:)

The fog starts to lift about 4 miles offshore…..don’t look back….the cliffs at Plymouth still look close. Finally some horizon…but I think the damage is done….my head is taking lefts while the board is going straight….I get wet a lot. I don’t think my share of the 5 bottles of wine last night is helping either. I’m feeling bad about slowing us down but the guys are very cool about it. Making it seem like it was their idea to take a break when I was struggling. Thanks guys…:). I’m happy to see Mike looks like he’s feeling better. There’s actually some flesh tones showing through the green.

Hehe…I just noticed that you two look like twins, sorry David…:)

Hhhmmm….I guess Bill and I did too….LOL

The fog is finally behind us

What happened to our forecast? As of Friday night we were supposed to have 10-14 kt tailwinds and calm seas. Instead we have maybe a 2-4 kt WNW and once we got out further into the bay 2 ft side swell from the north and confused chop. At least there isn’t a headwind.

Fast forward…..we take a break at the halfway point. Jody has picked up a mylar ballon that was floating 10 miles out….reminds us why we are doing this. Shawn and Jody are having no problem keeping up on their 10-6 Vec’s. A combination of Shawn’s shaping skills and the fact that they are the most fit amongst us no doubt. The boards look like they have motor’s when they want to make them move.

15 miles in. Everyone is making it look easy. I’m feeling awkward, old, and slow. My head is still swimming occasionally. I pull my hat back….having the brim in my field of vision is bugging me….I don’t usually wear a hat. 5 minutes later my head is clear…or close anyway. Can it be that simple? I know that vision and balance are closely tied together. I can only guess that having an artificial horizon of a hat brim moving around was causing me problems. I don’t think I’ll wear a hat on the water anymore. Maybe a bandana and a cutlass….I’ll be the 1st SUPirate.

20 miles….We’ve had Provincetown in sight for awhile. We also get leeward of Race Point and the water flattens nicely. The hardest part is behind us. Still 8 miles to go but no question of making it now. As we get closer the boat traffic gets heavier….Capt. Paul is like a pit bull mother with her puppy’s….any boat approaching us finds a 50’ sport fisher aimed at it….making it very obvious to stay clear.

We had to be quite a site to the folks on the beach at Race Point. 8 guys coming in from the open ocean walking on water. Just so long as they didn’t want any wine….I’d had my fill of wine for awhile.

I couldn’t believe how excited I was to make the last turn into the harbor. Folks on boats taking pictures. The Capt of one of the big whale watch boats getting ready to go out announced our arrival over the loudspeaker and the passengers lined the rails watching and waving as we went by. Family and friends were on the dock, there were boat horns blaring. It made me want to hold back a bit and savor the moment. WE MADE IT! Let the record show that Jerry Issel was the 1st man to paddle across Cape Cod Bay, Plymouth to Provincetown, shore to shore. The rest of us all landed within the minute.

It felt good to feel solid ground again. We had a great lunch at the Surf Club Restaurant (how appropriate) and then parted ways. It felt strange to break it up, like it should last longer somehow. The best thing about this whole experience is the great friends we’ve made. This is a great crew of guys and I’m proud to have shared this with all of you. I know we’ll all get on the water together again.

L to R: Shawn, Jody, Bob, Bill, David, Jerry, Mike, and Paul

Beyond the sense of accomplishment of making it across we raised money and awareness for a good cause. The final numbers aren’t in yet but I think it’s safe to say that we will have raised somewhere between $11,000 and $12,000 for the Ocean Conservancy and their International Coastal Cleanup. We also raised awareness of the sport itself and on a personal note I hope I’ve inspired some others that are facing health issues to try something different as therapy. Get out there and live…..this isn’t a dress rehearsal.

Start training for next year guys….
Aloha.

Photo Credits: From the water:
Lynn Wilson
From the dock/beach in Provincetown:
Betsy Brown

I’ve included the previous video by Lynn Wilson here as well. Thanks Lynn…awesome job.

Cape Cod Bay Challenge Video – Proud to be a Janitor

I’ll have a story posted soon….until then check out this great video by Lynn Wilson. Thanks Lynn…awesome job.

Cape Cod Bay Challenge

On August 9, 2008, a small group of stand-up paddle surfers will attempt a grueling marathon paddle across Cape Cod Bay from Plymouth to Provincetown to raise awareness and money to help stop the ever growing problem of pollution in our oceans and along our shores.

All proceeds from the event will benefit the Ocean Conservancy, a non-profit dedicated to promoting healthy and diverse ocean ecosystems. Part of the proceeds of this event will go towards the Ocean Conservancy’s International Coastal Clean Up on September 20, 2008.

The beauty, purity and the challenge of paddle surfing make it a great platform to raise awareness about the extremely serious issue of ocean pollution. Our goal is to make this an annual event that will serve as an on-going fundraiser for, and reminder of, our need to be responsible stewards of the ocean.

I had to think about whether I wanted to tell my own story or not. One it’s personal and two, this paddle isn’t about me. But I do want to use this opportunity to not only raise some money for a good cause but also maybe encourage a few folks to join me on the water. Especially if they are dealing with issues similar to my own.

When I first thought of the challenge last fall I didn’t think it was something I would be participating in….just organizing was my original thought. You see, five years ago I was diagnosed with a brain tumor, a vestibular schwannoma, growing on the vestibular nerve. Since then I’ve undergone radio-surgery to kill the tumor. The ongoing side effects of the tumor and radio-surgery caused severe headaches, vertigo, and dizziness, also deafness and tinnitus on my left side. The most disabling issue was loss of balance and vertigo, being unable to trust my body to do things, especially driving, made life planning difficult at best. I wasn’t sure where it would end, what it would mean to my career. Even the simple things like keeping up with the yardwork had become impossible.

4 years of treatments and prescriptions did little to help. Nothing the doctors did helped with the balance/vertigo problems. Then my brother Bill gave me his 12-6 Starboard Cruiser standup paddleboard when he thought it might be good therapy. It has proved to be one of the greatest gifts I’ve ever received.. Ten short months ago I was approaching 50, an overweight, out of shape balance challenged guy on a downward spiral. 5 months later on my 50th birthday, January 24th, I was surfing at Nauset Beach on Cape Cod.

I had already seen a dramatic change by then. I had retrained my system to balance visually. Pushing my need for balance to the extreme on a standup board makes the normal possible. I’ve been driving my car…..freedom. I went from barely being able to stand on a board to going out in 10′ waves in a nor’easter in mid May. Wild wind, heavy chop, and 8-10′ waves and I’m not only standup paddling out into it but catching a few waves as well. Talk about feeling alive.

Here I am 10 months later, 50 lbs lighter, even with all the added muscle, able to live a more normal life all because of a sport that is incredibly fun to do. I hope many of you that read this might be encouraged to give it a try, especially those that might be facing issues like mine. If I can do it almost anyone can. The added benefit, I’m in better shape now than I was at 30.

I’m not saying that this negates the need for medical care. I’ve just been painfully reminded of that. Unfortunately after 4 years of no growth I’ve just found out my little friend may be growing again. You can’t argue the obvious benefits however. The not so obvious may be just as important. I don’t think I’ve ever felt so at peace as while I’m out paddling. I return from every session refreshed in spirit. One thing that standup definitely gives me is a much better outlook on rehab if I need treatment again this time. My 1st question is going to be how long before I can get back on the water?

For additional info and to donate please check our website http://www.capecodbaychallenge.org . You can also download a copy of our poster there.

See you on the water.

Team Industrial and the Catalina Challenge

The Prolific Paddler and Paddlebuilder Ernie Johnson sent me two great photojournals for races he’s done recently. This makes three stories so far from Ernie (and makes all the rest of you look like slackers–how ’bout getting those stories to me–you can’t just be sitting around reading about this stuff!).

Ernie Johnson and Tony Mueller teamed up to compete in the Catalina Challenge using Ernie’s sailboat (and home) as their chase boat. Here’s Ernie’s story:

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