Tag Archives: steep bank;

…The beach break behind me looked about head high. I thought “oh great, I’m going to finish the race by getting worked in front of 500 spectators” but I managed to catch it before it crumbled and got out in front of the whitewater. I beached the board at full speed and stumbled up the Continue Reading

I poked my way down the California coast, looking at inaccessible surf spots, monster kelp beds, and cold-looking water until I reached Santa Barbara. I pulled into town and made my way to the beach. I had planned to look up the infamous Wardog once I got there, I figured he’d have a secret spot Continue Reading